High Surf Advisory
14 June 2009
High Surf Advisory - Kona (Hawaii)
COASTAL HAZARD MESSAGE
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE HONOLULU HI
...HIGH SURF ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 6 PM HST MONDAY...
SURF ALONG SOUTH FACING SHORES WILL BE 7 TO 10 FEET THROUGH
MONDAY.
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Hopefully you didn't notice that the wave I'm riding is a little bit
smaller than the other waves. I prefer slightly larger surf than that
wave but five or maybe six foot surf is about my limit. This 7 to 10
feet stuff is just crazy.
The problem with big surf isn't catching the wave, that's the fun part,
the problem is when you try to catch a wave and wipe out instead.
Falling off a ten foot wave is equivalent to falling off your roof then
having someone dump a swimming pool's worth of water on top of you.
It's not as easy as it sounds.
It's great fun to watch the local surfers on these giant waves but as
much as I want to join them, I know I'm safer on the shore taking
pictures. After this big swell dies down a bit, then I'll go back out
there.
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