An experiment with pulped natural coffee.
20 May 2011
Note: This was originally written in 2011, prices have changed.
$60 for a pound of Kona coffee! At least that's the word on the
street. I'm not sure I believe it. Kona Earth coffee is
only $25 per pound and we have some darned good coffee that is always
getting great reviews and winning awards. So who is paying $60
per pound and what is so special about this coffee? Well, let me
At $600 per pound, Kopi
Luwak is the most expensive coffee in the world. That is a
special case and it's not Kona coffee. For
100% Kona, I have heard of $50 per pound at Starbucks and I've
personally seen $70 per pound at places like the airport. Those
are both special cases too. Starbucks is so big they can't
normally keep 100% Kona in stock and when they manage to get some, they
can charge whatever they want. Airport shops are also experts at
charging whatever they want. So while both of these examples are
expensive coffee, neither one is particularly special coffee.
The Kona coffee being sold for $60 per pound is different,
literally. It is called natural coffee. As if coffee wasn't
already natural. Another name, slightly less appetizing, is
unwashed coffee. The most accurate name is probably dry processed
coffee. Some use the name honey coffee but I think that is too
ambiguous and a bit deceptive.
The name isn't the only aspect of this coffee that is heavily
debated. Dry processed coffees are often accompanied with near
fanatical obsession, on both sides of the fence. Some people love
this coffee while others are, well, less than enthusiastic.
Before getting into the details, let's start with the basics.
Kona coffee, and most coffee around the world, is typically processed
using the wet method. It is wet because we use water to clean the
coffee. Immediately after picking, the coffee is pulped to remove
the outer fruit layer then fermented in water to remove the slimy,
mucilage layer. This produces a very clean bean which is less
susceptible to mold, mildew and other problems. Meticulous
cleaning is the best way to ensure consistent quality.
Meticulous cleaning requires some fancy equipment. I have an
expensive pulper for the first
step. I use
both a mechanical demucilager and traditional fermenting for the second
step. I am also making my own high
efficiency, computer controlled coffee dryer for the final
All those machines help create very clean coffee which is important
when you live in a humid, tropical climate and don't like the taste of
Machines are great when you can afford them. In some coffee
growing regions, fancy processing machines and the water to run them
are both expensive and scarce. So how do these regions clean
their coffee? They don't. They simply pick the coffee then
throw it out on the dirt road to let it dry, cherry and all. This
is called the dry process since there is no water involved.
Like any fruit, the coffee cherry contains a lot of moisture when it is
picked from the tree. In the dry process, the coffee bean
ferments inside the sugary fruit which gives it a very distinct
flavor. This is the flavor that is sought after by some and
shunned by others. It can be strong enough to hide the terroir
and nuances of a coffee or it can add fascinating characteristics not
present in washed coffee. I suppose it depends mostly on your
personal preferences. Whatever the case, it is easy to smell and
taste the difference.
Dry processing started out of necessity in poor countries with little
water. It started that way but has since grown into a popular
processing technique. In Kona, making naturals is difficult
because of the humid weather. Dry processed coffee is very
susceptible to mold, mildew and other problems. That is why we
are so careful to wash our coffee thoroughly before drying it.
Kona's reputation as a smooth and mellow coffee is partially due to
this meticulous cleaning.
Semi dry process
Personally, I am not a big fan of most dry processed coffee.
Maybe it's because I work so hard to avoid over-fermenting my coffee,
I've learned to associate the taste as a defect. However, I have
found a middle ground that I like much better. It's called pulped
Immediately after the coffee is picked, I pulp it as usual, removing
the outer fruit skin. Then I skip the fermentation step and
simply lay the pulped beans out to dry. They are still slippery
and slimy at this point because most of the fruit's sugars still coat
the beans. It looks dirty and nasty while wet but it is sweet and
dries to a yellowish orange color. The coffee has a sweetness and
color kind of like, well, honey. So maybe the term honey
processed isn't totally inaccurate and deceptive.
Since it skips a step, making pulped naturals may seem easier than wet
processed coffee. Let me assure you, it is not. It is a
slimy, sticky mess with a good chance of the coffee going bad.
That's ok, I like a good challenge and when done right, pulped naturals
can be really good. I was eager to see how my coffee tasted as a
Dealing with the slimy mess was not fun. It took days of constant
raking and made a huge mess all over my drying deck. For awhile
it looked like I would end up with nothing but a stinky, moldy
mess. I had talked with other Kona coffee farmers that have tried
drying naturals and failed. I knew I needed good weather and I
had purposely waited for just the right opportunity.
My luck held and I was rewarded with two solid weeks of hot, dry
weather. Once I got the dried coffee into my climate controlled
storage room, I knew I had avoided the mold problems that are so
common. The next challenge was getting the coffee hulled.
With so much sugar still intact, pulped naturals are very sticky.
That makes it difficult to remove the parchment layer. If not
dried thoroughly, naturals can gum up and ruin a huller. The
millers in the area are always wary of under-dried coffee, especially
naturals. I am fortunate that my favorite miller trusts my
coffee. He agreed to mill my pulped naturals and didn't seem
surprised when it hulled perfectly.
The final challenge is certification. Hawaii state inspectors
grade Kona coffee to a specific standard. Naturals do not
normally meet this standard. There is nothing that outright
prevents naturals from being certified but it is important to warn the
inspectors ahead of time. Their extra scrutiny makes it more
difficult to get naturals certified but with the mold problems being so
common, I'm glad the inspectors are extra careful.
It was a lot of effort and a big mess but I think it was a
success. I now have a small batch of pulped naturals.
Looking at them, I can instantly see a dramatic difference, even from a
distance. I'm not sure if the average consumer could tell a
difference but I definitely can. The pulped naturals smell
different too. Rather pleasant, slightly sweeter, although still
I sent a batch to a friend to be cupped. This friend, Dr. Shawn
Steiman of Coffea Consulting, is a
highly qualified coffee consultant and licensed Q-grader. For
those that don't know what a Q-grader is, it is someone licensed to
evaluate coffee professionally. A Q-grader can tell you all sorts
of subtleties about a coffee that the average person can barely
perceive. A good Q-grader can perform amazing feats such as
detecting freshly brewed coffee by aroma
Dr. Steiman is an excellent Q-grader and I asked him to use his coffee
cupping super powers to evaluate my pulped naturals. He roasted
up a sample then immediately sold everything he owned and said he would
pay anything I wanted for the entire batch. This coffee was so
good, it broke his mouth.
Ok, his review wasn't quite that dramatic. He was pleased
though. Here is a direct quote:
Most exciting for me was the distinctive floral
component. It added the complexity to your coffee that I've long
suspected was there. This coffee is a softer, mellower version of
what most geeks get all gooey over.
That review was based on two different sample roasts, both of them
light roasts. Light roasts are great for formal cuppings but not
very popular for enjoying a cup of coffee. So the light roasts
may not perfectly represent the final roasted product.
My initial instinct was to take my pulped naturals to a Full City
roast. Full City is a popular
roast so it
seemed like the perfect choice. However, after some debate with
various experts, I decided that Full City would be a little too dark
for this coffee.
Roasting pulped naturals can be challenging. With so many sugars
present on the outside of the bean, it is easy to char the
coffee. A dark roast was definitely out and Full City was
probably out too. On the other hand, too light of a roast and
nobody but a few extreme connoisseurs would be able to appreciate the
I decided to go with a temperature of 446°F. All roasters are
different so that's a meaningless number for any roaster other than the
one I was using. Furthermore, that is not the temperature I
roasted to. As the coffee was roasting, I monitored it
carefully. 446 was the target temperature but at the last minute,
I decided to stop at 442. It was an impulsive decision but I am
very happy with the result.
The coffee is just a tad darker than our typical medium roast. I
let it rest and outgas for 12 hours then I had my first cup this
morning. I was so eager, I burned my tongue. So as
much as I'd love to give a rave review, I'm afraid I can't.
Judging my own coffee isn't exactly an unbiased review anyways.
Others have tried this coffee and they all say they love it. It
is definitely different. It doesn't have the strong
characteristics of a true natural which is perfect because I wanted
something more accessible to the average consumer. This pulped
natural is a tamer, more subtle version. It has some qualities of
a natural while still allowing the uniqueness of my coffee to come
through. Of course I am a fan of that.
This has been a fantastic experience for me. I have already had
several roasters and wholesalers ask if they can buy my pulped
naturals. I have had to tell them no because I simply don't have
enough. If I had known the demand would be so strong, I would
have made more.
I plan to try this all again, with a much larger batch, next year.
I will do a few things different, such as using screens for the initial
drying so I don't make such a mess on my drying deck. I will also
do a larger batch so the machines sort the coffee better and our final
hand sort will be easier than it was this year. I'll do other
things the same, like waiting for the perfect weather. I should
have my high-tech dryer working by then so that will definitely help
That is all next year though. All I have this year is this one
small batch. I am quite happy with how it turned out. The
only thing left to do is determine a price.
I don't care how good it is, $60 is too expensive. On the other
hand, I have put an absurd amount of effort into this. Combined
with the law of supply and demand, the typical Kona Earth price of $25
per pound is too low. Splitting the difference is $42.50.
I'm only going sell this pulped natural coffee in half pound bags (to help
ensure freshness) so that's $21.25 per bag, only a few dollars more than
our peaberry which is always very popular.
Doing the math, it's about $1 per cup, depending on how strong you like
your coffee. Some people will still say that $21.25 for eight
ounces of coffee is too expensive. Maybe so. Personally, I
think super bowl tickets, designer shoes and iPhone subscriptions are
all far too expensive but there are plenty of people that find ample
value in all those things. Is this coffee worth twenty
bucks? I think so. You will have to decide for yourself.
The pulped naturals were very popular among coffe connoisseurs.
Because of this popularity, we sold out quickly. There have
been many requests for more but we need to wait until the weather
and timing is right. That means there probably won't be any
more pulped naturals any time soon. When we do get more, we
will send an email to all registered users that receive
notifications. Until then, you will just have to be patient.